For this last article in the series, Rockin’ The Mexican Stove, I wanted to write about one of the best restaurants David and I ate at while in the beautiful city of Mérida. We happened upon it through reading a review in a travel book. We loved it so much that we ate there 3 times in the 6 days we were in Mérida. That says a lot right there, doesn’t it?

A bit off the beaten tourist path and sitting inside a blue painted doorway is La Casa de Frida. Eclectically decorated, it’s a tome to the great artist Frida Kahlo, the atmosphere was magical and other worldly. Walls painted in bright azur blue and fuschia purple, paintings by Frida hanging on the walls and Mexican folk art fill the space. The back wall is open to a outdoor courtyard that is covered by a clear, plastic mechanical ceiling, similar to a garage door. If the weather turns rainy you can still enjoy dinner al fresco. Cactus and tropical plants fill the rooms as well. Like I said, it’s a magical place and the food was as well.

Owner and chef, Gabby Praget, was kind enough to sit with me for an interview about her restaurant, history as a chef and even give me a tour of her kitchen.

Chef Shirlé: So, first, how did you learn cooking, and to speak English so perfectly? Did you spend time in the States?

Chef Gabby: As a teenager I spent time in Canada and the States. I just wanted to learn English. I had some very good friends who lived in New York and asked to to come stay with them. They were good cooks and would take me around to many different restaurants so that I could try different things. This is when I realized that cooking is what I wanted to do.

CS: Then did you move back to Mexico City?

CG: Yes. But first I finished high school and then went to University to study communications and after five years of working I realized that I wanted to cook. This is when I opened my Italian restaurant in Mexico City.

CS: Oh wow. Did you work in a restaurant prior to that?

CG: No.Never.

CS: Wow. So you decided that you wanted to open a restaurant and just did it. How did it go?

CG: It went well. It was crazy because I wanted to open up a small place, but my sister, her husband and another couple were very enthusiastic and they said, “oh we’ll help you with the money”. So instead of opening up a small, humble place it was a large restaurant, but I didn’t know anything about running a restaurant. I had to learn fast.

CS: Oh, you had to hire a staff, buy everything on your own, from scratch…Oh my god.

CG: Yes, actually my friends from New York came at that time to teach me how to make the pasta and the basic sauces.

CS: Oh my gosh! But you said it was successful.

CG: Yes, I made a few mistakes because people in the northern part of Mexico eat a lot of meat. So it was meat and pasta.

CS: So you kept it easy. That was very brave of you. So you have answered a part of the question of how you learned to cook. Did you also learn from your family?

CG: Yes, when I was a small kid at home people from all over the country would work for my family cooking so that is where I learned the flavors of Mexico. So now I am trying to repeat the flavors that I tasted before.

Cheese Enchiladas in Mole

CS: So, then can you tell me what goes into your amazing mole? You write in the menu that there are 18 different items in the mole.

CG: Yes, 3 different types of chilies, tomatoes, garlic, onion, peanuts, raisins, sesame seeds, plantain…

CS: Is that a traditional mixture?

CG: Yes, yes. That’s the way you are supposed to make it.

CS: Do you use a food processor to blend everything?

CG: Yes, a very large blender. An industrial one. This is what made the difference. That is why it is easier.

CS: Then do you put it in a pot and cook it for hours?

CG: Oh, well maybe an hour or so. Not very long. And it’s also very good because of a very rich stock I make. I use very dark chocolate.

CS: Mole has always intrigued me because of all the ingredients and the sweet, savory, salty depth of flavor.

CG: Oh really?

CS: Oh, yes. I wanted to ask you, what made you consider to offer vegetarian selections here at La Casa de Frida? Is that because of your experience in Mexico City and all the tourists? Did you feel like they needed this option?

Chiles en Nogada

CG: Yes, because either the tourists are vegetarians or they just want a rest from the meat.

CS: Are you vegetarian yourself?

CG: Not vegetarian, but everything I make here I would eat. I don’t use lard. In most Mexican food you will find lard but that is so unhealthy that I wouldn’t use it. I wouldn’t eat that so I wouldn’t serve it to you.

CS: Where do you get your produce from? Do you go daily to a market yourself or do you have a produce truck or food supply truck come to the restaurant?

CG: I don’t have a delivery truck. I go to 4 different markets, a bakery.

CS: So, no one comes to you. You do it all yourself.

CG: Yes, that is why I open at 5 pm and close at 10pm because I am at the markets and then preparing.

CS: You are closed Sundays, right? That is your day of rest.

CG: Yes.

CS: Is your menu seasonal? Do you change the menu often?

CG: I change it every high season, so once a year. I add or take out something. But I don’t change it too much beacuse people that come here expect certain things; the chile, the mole and the crepes.

Cuitlachoche Crepes

CS: Are there organic options here in Merida?

CG: No, not very many, but that may change over time.

CS: Do you think you are bringing in more international customers that locals?

CG: Oh yes, it’s probably about 90% tourists.

CS: Why do you think that is?

CG: Because local people don’t come much into downtown. It’s not comfortable. There are no parking lots, it’s far from where they live. They don’t really live downtown. So, they don’t come very often.

CS: So they come to work downtown?

CG: Yes, but what I cook for the hours that I am open is too heavy for them. It is what they would eat for lunch, not dinner. If I opened for lunch time I am sure I would have more local customers.

CS: I guess for us tourist it’s good.

CG: Yes because the tourist come to eat then leave. If it were locals they would never leave. They would be here until 2am! Having drinks and everything…I don’t want that. I want to go out, too. (laughter)

CG: How long has La Casa de Frida been open?

CG: About 4 years now.

CS: Why did you pick Frida Khalo as your inspiration and restaurant name?

CG: Well, first I knew it was going to be Mexican food and then thinking of something that would be interesting for people like you. Something that would attract the travelers.

CS: Right. And you are from Mexico City.

CG: Yes, I used to go very often to her house. My university was very close to her house.

CS: In my mind Frida Khalo is one of the treasures of Mexico.

CG: Oh yes!

Gabby in her beautiful kitchen

CS: Now, tell me about Cuitlacoche. Is that something you grew up eating?

CG: Oh yes. It must be something special because in Mexico City it was very easy to get it, but here it is more difficult. I don’t know why.

CS: Maybe something to do with the humidity, the bugs, who knows…

CG: In Mexico city you go to markets and they have quesadillas and one of the quesadillas is Quesadillas de Cuitlachoche. It’s very popular. Like cheese, just as popular.

CS: Really!?

CG: Yes, very much. But not here.

CS: Do the locals like it?

CG: Not here. Not very much. (laughter)

CS: Do you incorporate the Yucatecan cuisine into our menu?

CG: I don’t like places that offer everything. So I make Mexican food. The Yucatecans consider themselves separate from Mexico, and I cook Mexican food.

CS: Do you have a website so that travelers can find you?

CG: Yes, it’s www.lacasadefrida.com.mx

I would like to say thank you to Gabby for sharing her story with me. I will definitely be back and will dream of her mole and almond torte until then.

Almonde Torte