I just returned from a two week trip to Mexico with David, where we visited Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Mérida and Progreso, and I have to say, it was amazing! The people were so kind and gracious, offering their hospitality as if we were family. And the food…well, the food is why I went and okay, add to that the beautiful beaches. So, let’s talk about the food of the Yucatán peninsula.I would like to start by saying one thing about United States grocery stores verses Mexican. We in the States are getting SCREWED! I’m serious. David and I went grocery shopping because we had a kitchen in our condo in Playa del Carmen and decided that we would rock our little Mexican stove. We went to a store called MEGA and bought the following for only $27 USD.

pack of 5 heads of garlic- .85
4 poblano chilis- .23
2 mandarin oranges- .70
8 limes- .14
6 roma tomatoes- 1.20
box of salad greens- .39
3 avocados- 1.08
1 28 oz. can black beans- .70
1 28 oz. pinto beans- .60
1 15oz. can salsa Mexicana- .28
1 big carton of V-8 juice- 1.60
2 small cartons of guanabana juice- .37 each
1 lb. piece of cod- 1.80
3 different fresh Mexican cheeses- 1.80/1.60/2.10
1 bunch of cilantro- .48
1 bunch of epazote- .48
1 dozen eggs- 1.60
1 red and 1 yellow bell pepper- .85
2 six packs of pacifico beer (bottles)- 4.20 each
1 lb of bananas- .27
olive oil tin (small)- 2.50
small bottle of vinegar- .29
and a few other items that I can’t decifer from the grocery bill.

Oh yeah, and a pack of fresh, and I mean still hot and wrapped in paper, corn tortillas- .32

It was incredible. MEGA was similar to a Super Target (as I over heard one gringo saying to their amigo). They sold housewares, clothes, appliances, music, etc… except organic produce, although, someone told us that they are going to start carrying organics. Everyone brought their own shopping bags as well, so I bought a beautiful orange oil cloth bag for myself. I used it for our groceries as well as our trips to the beach.

We made breakfast almost every morning, but we bought our coffee at a wonderful Italian café on the corner called Il Baretto, where they made the best Caffe Americano con leche. A typical breakfast for us was Huevos Rancheros which consisted of eggs, beans, tortillas, queso, avocado and salsa or Huevos Mexicana that was made with scrambled eggs, salsa and queso.

One afternoon, I whipped up Paella Tortillas for our lunch, using leftovers from the previous night’s dinner. I mixed the Paella with some egg whites and cooked it in a pan over low heat until all the egg was thoroughly set. Then I served them with fresh corn tortillas, avocado and salsa. It was a simple solution of what to do with our previous night’s dinner.

We made dinner only once because there were so many great places to eat, but what we did make was really awesome. I called it “Pescado con Cilantro.” I made a quick sauce of cilantro, epazote (a Mexican herb with an earthy flavor), garlic, olive oil, salt and a touch of vinegar that I pureed in a blender.

I placed a cod fillet in a skillet and poured the cilantro mixture over top of it, simmering for about 20 minutes until it easily flaked.

As a side, I made Chili Rellenos, where I blackened the poblano chilis over a flame on the stove.

I steamed them in a bag to loosen the charred skins. I removed the skin, seeds and membrane from inside and stuffed them with some local queso from Oaxaca.

Rolled them in whipped egg whites.

Rolled them in bread crumbs.

And lightly browned them in a skillet.

I also made a quick side of refried beans.

I topped the fish with some sauteed yellow bell peppers and made a smear of hot sauce as garnish.

We always ate outside on the balcony where we could listen to the black birds cawing to each other in the palm trees. It was really perfect.

One of our neighbors in the condo had a five year old daughter named Sophie. I asked her when we were swimming in the pool what her favorite food was and she exclaimed, “Mac and Cheese!” Her father said, that she really wanted to eat some Mac and Cheese in Playa del Carmen, but he explained that they don’t make that here in Mexico. I could tell she really missed it. On our last day in Playa, I went to the bodega (quickie mart) and bought some pasta shells. I took the 3 cheeses we had left over and made her some amazing homemade Mac and Cheese. David and I took it to them and her eyes lit up. Who knew I would be personal cheffing in Mexico!

I would like to suggest to anyone who visits a new country to try to get a place with a stove. It’s a great way to experience the flavors of the country, visit their markets/grocers and submerge yourself in the culture. And at the very least get your culinary toes wet. Some people might think that I was out of my mind, wanting to pick up a pan and cook on vacation, but for me cooking is a passion. Being able to play in another country’s kitchen and explore their markets was a blast.

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The Southwest’s Best Breakfast Menu:
Tofu Rancheros w/Black beans & Soy Sausage

So, pretty much every Sunday morning David and I make some version of either a Southwest or Mexican inspired breakfast. This usually always includes beans, salsa, avocado and corn tortillas. What goes in between those things are always different and depends on what’s in the fridge that morning. We seriously love those flavors for our first meal of the day, and with our trip to Mexico growing closer each weekend we keep trying out variations on the theme of Latin Vegetarian.

Mexican food , when you really think about it, doesn’t NEED meat. This cuisine relies on tons of fresh veggies, lean protein packed beans, heart healthy grains and wonderful aromatic herbs and spices. I am not talking about the typical “Am-exico” food you get in most Mexican restaurants here in the states. That stuff is loaded with cheese and rice and that is not what people eat south of the border. They keep it simple, and that is why I love this style of cooking. Someone once told me that Mexican food is one of the fattiest cuisines out there (because of the cheese, most likely) but it doesn’t have to be.

You should try this one morning. You would think that the beans would make it heavy, but believe me, it’s not. It was the perfect meal to give us the energy to run our errands and go on a long mid-day walk. Also, this recipe incorporates a riff on Isa Chandra Moskowitz’s recipe, Scrambled Tofu, from her cook book Vegan With A Vengeance.

First, mix this spice blend. Make extra so that you don’t have to make it every time. I always triple it.
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp salt

Drain a block of extra firm tofu. Extra firm works the best in keeping it’s shape and doesn’t get mushy.

In a saute pan with 1/2 Tbs olive oil saute’ 1/2 of a diced red onion until soft and caramelized.

Crush 2 cloves of garlic then add to pan with onions.

Dice 8 medium size mushrooms then add the mushrooms to the onions and saute until golden.

Add a heaping Tbs of the spice mixture then crumble the tofu in the pan, making sure to leave big chunks. Stir well.

Squeeze the juice of one lemon and add this to the tofu. Also, add a 1/4 cup of nutritional yeast. Nutritional yeast makes it creamy and thickens it up a bit giving it the texture and feel of scrambled eggs.

Add one shredded carrot to the mix and gently stir in. Turn heat to low to keep warm. Meanwhile, in a sauce pan brown the sausage, add one can of drained and rinsed black beans (or your fave frijole) and cook until the moisture has evaporated.
On a plate lay out 2 corn tortillas and top with a bit of the bean-sausage mixture, the scrambled tofu, some salsa and whatever else you want to finish it off with, like sour cream, guacamole and some seriously hot sauce.

Armed with fuzzy hats and a great breakfast Shirle’ & David get ready to meet the day.

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